Cover photo: The New York Times
Miljenko “Mike” Grgić, Croatia’s most famous winemaker and a world wine legend, was born on April 1, 1923, in the village of Desne in the Neretva Valley. He learned about wine from childhood by helping his family in the vineyard, and turned his love of the vine into his life’s calling.
Today, his Grgić vina winery in Trstenik on Pelješac is an essential stop for many guests sailing the Adriatic on our ships. There, over a glass of Pošip or Plavac Mali, they have the opportunity to hear about the man who, with his enthusiasm and love for indigenous Croatian grape varieties, connected Pelješac and Croatia with the whole world.
Grgich received his formal education at the University of Zagreb, where he graduated in enology and viticulture in 1954. Shortly after completing his studies, he left his homeland due to socio-political circumstances. He first moved to Canada, and then to the United States. In California, in Napa Valley, he realized the American dream and became one of the leading winemakers in the region and an indispensable name in the world of winemaking.
Judgement of Paris
A historic moment came in 1973 when, as head oenologist, he created and shaped the Chardonnay of the California winery Chateau Montelena. At the famous blind tasting in Paris known as the “Judgement of Paris,” three years later, the wine beat six Californian and four prestigious French wines. This event is considered a global turning point that opened the door to success for California winemakers.
Just a year later, in 1977, Grgich founded his own winery, Grgich Hills Cellar, now Grgich Hills Estate, with his partner Austin Hills. His wines soon became synonymous with quality, served at the White House and given as gifts to the most distinguished guests. In America, he earned the nickname “King of Chardonnay”, and awards from the world’s most prestigious competitions followed for decades.
Return to Croatia
Despite his worldwide fame, Grgich never forgot his roots. In 1996, at the invitation of President Franjo Tuđman, he decided to invest in his homeland and founded the Grgić Vina winery on Pelješac, with the aim of transferring his knowledge and experience into domestic wines. It was there that the exceptional Pošip and Plavac wines were created, which still enjoy a high reputation today.
He also stood out as a promoter of Croatian winemaking in the world. He actively participated in research that proved that American Zinfandel originated in Dalmatia, from the Tribidrag variety. Throughout his life, despite worldwide recognition, he remained modest and devoted to his family, tradition, and homeland.
Indispensable in American history
It is also interesting that Grgich’s Chateau Montelena Chardonnay from 1973, his suitcase with which he traveled to America, a blue beret, a textbook from Zagreb college and several other personal items are part of the permanent exhibition of the Smithsonian National Museum of American History in Washington. Along with Tesla, Grgich is the only person from Croatia who is mentioned in this American history museum and the largest research center in the world. The Smithsonian Institution also published this wine in the book “The Smithsonian’s History of America in 101 Objects”, in which Grgich’s Chardonnay stands next to Abraham Lincoln’s hat, Alexander Graham Bell’s telephone and Neil Armstrong’s astronaut suit.
Miljenko “Mike” Grgich passed away on December 13, 2023 at the age of 101, leaving behind an indelible mark on Croatian and world wine history.
